[インド]ふたつのインド [India] Two faces of India.





The SIM I bought yesterday still doesn’t work.. I called the number “59059” and entered the 4 digit number of my passport as instructed. It said “It has been succeeded. It will be activated in 30 minutes.” It has been more than 30 minutes since then but doesn’t work. Why..?

By the way, I bought the SIM from airtel and chose the plan that is valid for 56 days with 1 GB everyday with free calls. It was only 449 rupees. (730 yen)



メトロ(地下鉄)に乗っていきます。イエローラインのサケット駅から約30分、Rajiv Chowk駅で降ります。

I went to Connaught Place in New Delhi and Chandni Cahwk in Old Delhi.

I took a yellow line metro from Saket station to Rajiv Chawk which takes about 30 minutes.

サケット駅 Saket station.
メトロのプリペイドトラベルカード。アミットがいくらか残っているカードをくれました。ホント優しい。涙。Metro travel card. Amit gave me the cad with some amount still left! How nice.

コンノートプレイス(英語Connaught Place、通称CP)は、ビジネスやショッグの中心地で、一言でいえば、お洒落でハイソ。(ハイソって今でも使う?)

Connaught place, aka CP, is the center of business and stylish place.


お洒落なスタバで一休みして、今度はコンノートプレイスのあるラジブチョーク駅から2駅のチャンドニーチョーク(Chandni Chowk)で下車、駅を出ると目の前はChawri Bazaarです。

So stylish! There were H&M and starbucks as well. The people walking the area were stylish too.

I took a break at the starbucks and then went to the Chawri Bazaar which is two stations away from Rajiv Chowk.


it was completely different atmosphere from Connaught Place. This place was the image of India that I had before I came to India. You can see bicycle rikshaw here.

これテレビで見たことある、路上の散髪屋さん。I have seen this on TV! An open-air barber shop.




I didn’t see any foreign tourists there and I felt people were staring at me. Is it because I was a foreigner or because I was a woman? Then I noticed that there was no women walking on the street. Things that were sold there was stuff like water pipes, cylinders, electric appliances, etc.

I started to feel uncomfortable so walked faster.

女の人発見。ついていこ。There is a woman!
ここにも!しかも子連れ。(安心)More woman! Even with a kid. What a relief.
さっきよりだいぶ歩きやすくなった。Ok, I can walk freely now.
明日のホーリーに向けてカラーが売っています。何で出来ているんだろう。Colors for tomorrow’s holi festival. Wonder what that is made of?


Then, I stumbled. Distracted by the camera, taking pictures.. There was a manhole slightly sticking up on the road. I just made myself in the spotlight. People were staring at me again..

あーあ。残念な足。Poor leg.



New and old. Both were India that is full of energy.

At the hostel later in the evening, we played a game called Tambola which is almost like a bingo. It was fun!



I’m grateful that I could spent the day safely, well only with minor injury.

Good night.

[インド]デリーベリー? [India]Delhi belly?






Still have slow pain on my stomach which is very annoying.

Ah, it’s Delhi belly! You may say. It’s not. I’ve had this from Nepal so you could say Nepali belly?


By the way, M, the girl who seemed not so friendly yesterday came to me an d said, “We’re going to go to the park later. You should come with us.” I said “Of course yes!” I was happy that she asked me. She said it will be in the afternoon so I would just do my mission today before joining them. My mission was to get a SIM and get a medication for my stomach.

ちなみに、今回の宿Hide-in Hostelこんな感じです。ゲートで囲われた閑静な住宅街にあり、門にはセキュリティガードのおじさんもいます。お値段一泊359ルピー(約588円朝食付)。

This is my hostel in Delhi. Hide-in Hostel. It’s located in the gated area and there is a security guard at the entrance of the building. 359 rupees per night. (588 yen with breakfast.)


From New Delhi station, you can take yellow line to the Saket station in 30 minutes. It’s only 2 minute walk from the Saket station. Very convenient.

男女ミックス10人部屋。Mix dormitory.with 10 beds.



Two Indian guys from the same room talked to me. A guy Mayur was the first one who talked to me when I checked in and asked me many questions such as where I was from, what am I going to do in India, hey had a Japanese guy in the dormitory but he left yesterday, etc. He said he came from the Northeast called Assam and he is in Delhi for some kind of interview (Forgot what it was.). Very nice and friendly.

When I told him I had stomach problem, he gave me one of the medication.he had from his father who is a doctor. He showed me a big bag full of medications as if he was a pharmacist. He picked the medication for me based on the symptom that I told him. He made a phone call to his father and told him asked his father making that he was the one who got the Delhi belly so he can give me the right one.


He even gave me ORS powder to help my dehydration. What a nice Indian he is! I took it right away as I was told.


Wait. I just took the medication from a stranger. What if it was a poison? Can’t believe I have just taken unknown medication from unknown person… Ok, calm down. if I find the name of the medicine I can just google it! Yes! I looked at the back of the package, it’s written in something I cannot read…




Well, it’s too late now. It’s gonna be fine. He didn’t look like bad person. If something went wrong, I can handle when that happens. I am very quick to let it go in this type of situations. People often tells me I am always calm. I think that’s because I usually don’t attach with things. I may just be shallow-minded in that sense. Either way, I look after what I did as an adult. I take my responsibility.

And the result of the medication? It worked! Feel so much better! Maybe it’s right that local medication works the best. (I mean it’s not Delhi belly but Nepali belly but anyway…)

Everything turned out great! Phew. Thank you India. Thank you Mayur!

一応近くの薬局?も覗いてみたのですが、待合室にたくさんの人がいたので諦めました。I went to the pharmacy earlier but there was a long queue so I left immediately.


In the evening, hostel staffs took the guests for the night walk in the neighbor.

写真の日付が翌日になっていますが、激ウマだったので次の日も行きました。笑。The date of the pic says the next day because we went back again the next day! The food was so delicious!




My stomachache is gone so I was able to enjoy my first street food in India! Happy.

And, I got a SIM nearby with the help of Ankur, a staff of the hostel. The phone should be activated the next day. Yay.

Good night

[インド]一日目。ハローヒマラヤ?カトマンズからデリーへ。[India] Hello Himalaya? Kathmandu to Delhi.






Guess what I saw!! I saw the Himalayas! It was so amazing. Magnificent that made me speechless. I didn’t even want to take a breath. Felt like I would have lost the moment if I did. All I could do was just keep my eyes open.  And of course take many pictures.

The reason why I finally got to see the himalayas is….

Anyways, first I took off Kathmandu Airport.

カトマンズ上空。Over Kathmandu.


バイバイ、ネパール。グットゥ ミーチュー。

Is it because of the weather or the pollution? It was hazy.

Good bye Nepal. It was nice to meet you.



Then, shortly after the take off. What? Is that? Yes! Must be!

ぎゃー、そうだー!ヒマラヤだー! YES, YES! HIMALAYAS!

ヒマラヤ山脈ー! HIMALAYAS!




No. I didn’t shout like that at all.

In fact, I was speechless. Couldn’t breath. Beautiful Himalayas. Words just can’t describe… (Put aside my limited vocabulary. Thanks.)

During my one and half hour flight, I was with this amazing view. The whole time.




When I was searching about the flights to Delhi, I found this information in someones blog mentioning that you can have Himalaya’s amazing view if you take the flight from Kathmandu to Delhi. So I reserved the window seat on the right side near the front so the view can’t be blocked by the wing. Just as the blogger said.

Still I was not expecting this clear view. It is totally worth to pay additional fee (Only about 1000 yen.). I’m proud that I made the right decision. (Er, wasn’t it the info from the blogger?)

And here I am at Indira Gandhi International Airport. Already! 

デリー上空 Delhi.


I observed the city of Delhi. The city seems very organized. Wow, the streets seem to follow a grid pattern. Delhi is indeed a metropolitan! That means they have good infrastructure, right? And that means they have hot shower, right? I just couldn’t help feeling these small expectations coming out from my head.

空港トイレの入り口。これ好き。Love this. The toilet entrance at the airport.


Starting from April 2017, as a Japanese, you can get a visa on arrival if you fly into India. Even in-advance application online is not required. Quite a special treatment. I think that this is because that India recently bought the Shinakansen (bullet train) infrastructure system from Japan which made the diplomatic relations between the countries more important. If that’s the reason, then I guess I should thank Abe-san (Prime minister)? Thank you Abe-san. Thank you India.

ウェルカムトゥインディア! Welcome to India!


I straight walked towards the counter. I glanced at the long queue with many foreigners as I was passing by them.

って無人。。 Nobody..




I found an airport employee and told I wanted to apply for the visa. He told me to wait for the person in charge to come. I waited for 30 minutes. There were two other Japanese business men in suits.

The old man (the passport control officer)  came and said hello to me with smile. I said hello with smile too. Then he asked me if I had a pen that he can borrow. (in my head: Why on the earth you don’t even have a pen to do your job?)  I handed him my pen with a nice smile. You know it’s clever to be nice to him until you get a visa. Later I noticed that he didn’t return the pen! It’s just a pen but I liked that pen with a little sumo wrestler on the top. WelI, okay. I donate it to him. I’m sure that my little pen is doing great job at the airport now.

The application fee for visa is 200 rupees. I wanted to pay with my credit card as I didn’t have the rupee currency yet. But the card reader didn’t work for some reason so I paid with Japanese yen. I paid 4000 yen and got 270 rupees change back.

2か月有効のビザゲット。2か月もいないと思うけどね。The visa valid for two months. Well, I don’t think I would stay that long though.



And Amit was there at the arrival gate waiting for me! Thank you!

We took an airport express to the New Delhi station and then changed to the metro yellow line to Saket station where the hostel is.

初オートリキシャー(トゥクトゥク)。First auto rikshaw. (Tuktuk).






He came with me all the way to the hostel for me to check in smoothly. The whole way from the airport to the hostel, he also kindly showed me his talking skills. (He actually said that’s what he is good ast. Lol. ) How nice he is!

The hostel staffs were very friendly and welcomed me with smiles. So relieved.

After check-in, we went to the shopping mall nearby by auto rikshaw to grab a lunch at the food court there. The big nice modern mall made me happy. We had wrap sandwiches and lassi at Amit’s favorite place.




I have had this stomach pain for a couple of days now. It’s nothing serious like food poison but this dull pain is continuing. I also have kind of diarrhea.

Please make me feel better soon. I’m going to take it easy and rest now.

Good night.

[ネパール]で思ったことまとめ。[Nepal] Random thoughts.




The Nepal trip is ending so I am just going to write down my random impressions and thoughts about Nepal.




Water. You would think that Nepal is water-rich country because it’s surrounded by the Himalayas. But it doesn’t necessarily mean so. Yes, there is abundant of water. But it’s not provided properly to the housings due to the poor infrastructures. There was an outdoor laundry place (I think it’s public) in the city and saw people hand-washing their laundry.

In Pokhara, I saw they put the clothes just on the grass by the lake fro drying.

The washing machine doesn’t seem as common. I saw some home appliance stores that had washing machines but since the water supply is not sufficient especially for the machine that consumes so much water. It could be not as useful as you would expect even if you own one.



Electricity. Although it may be common sense to conserve electricity. Everywhere I stayed, you will find the note on the wall or in the room that request you to save electricity and water. And Often times, the hostel staffs turn off the lights when they find they’re on in the empty room. I am more aware of how much I use them so it’s good. I experienced power cut for three times during my stay but none of them didn’t last more than five minutes. 

Hot shower. As I wrote about it in the previous entry, I think it was the biggest thing for me personally. The solar panels are used in Nepal to heat the water, there is a limit and of course it depends hugely on the weather that day. You end up having to take a cold shower sometimes. I asked how they do in the rural area where is no solar panels, especially in cold winter. They said that they just take bath during the day when it’s relatively warm. They have firewood but they usually don’t use them for bath but they use for cooking.


Air. Was bad in Kathmandu. Dust and pollution. The local people seems suffering from it. They wear a mask usually black ones. Non-paved roads and motorbikes cause constant dust that covers everything. Trees, cars, windows, products at shop front. Everything is hazy and gray. Green leaves, flowers no longer have distinct colors.


Electric wires. Just look at this chaos. It is the art that I never understand. 


Red clothes. Not sure why but Napali women often wear red clothes.


Man and woman. At restaurants, hostels, stores, buses, taxis, all I see is men working. Well, there are women too but men by far. At least that’s my impression.  I heard that both men and women get married by arranged marriage when they become around 25 years old.  Makes me wonder women stay home after getting married. Do they work before getting married? Do they go to college?


Toilet paper. You dcan’t expect toilet papers at hostels or restaurants. (Well, if you go to touristy cafes maybe.)  Like in Thailand, here you also find a hose installed by the toilet bowl. Clean water spray that you can use to wash yourself after use toilet. It is a simple version of the washlet in Japan. Once you used to it, you will like it. I still prefer to use toilet paper to finish up so I always carry my own toilet paper in my bag. I think without toilet paper, you can simply leave it as is just let it dry naturally.



My nationality. Often times, I was thought to be a local Nepali by the Nepalis. I entered some tourists places without paying the entrance fee. Of course I didn’t do it intentionally.  Like at Durbar Square, and Pashupatinath where I ended up entering from the crematory side, there were local people there but nobody said anything. They just let me in. (Usually it’s free for Nepalis to enter temples.) Come to think of it, I always get the reaction from the local people in Thailand that they thought I was Thai. My Thai friend said I look mix.

I found out that there was entrance fee when I talked other travelers. I’m sorry Nepal. It just happened unintentionally. Really.




I guess that’s all.

Tomorrow, finally? at last? I’m flying to Delhi, India. I’m nervous. Just the number of the population of a billion makes me feel intimidated.. Overwhelming. Luckily, my friends introduced me of their Indian friend who is currently living in Delhi and he is going to come to the airport to pick me up. That is a great relief because I didn’t want to walk around in the crowd and possibly get lost with my big backpack. Just having someone at the airport makes me feel so relieved.

Hope I will spend time just fine in India.

[ネパール]パシュパティナートへ。[Nepal] Pashupatinath.




I’m back to Kathmandu. Today’s hostel is YADO240., where Nepali husband and Japanese wife are the owners. Booked through Booking.com as usual. I usually choose a hostel with a review score more than 8.5. YADO240. was not only with high score but they had a review that mentioned that hot shower is available for 24 hours. So this was absolutely for me who is seeking for hot shower. Lol.

道路から一歩奥にあります。The purple building.


It is 15 minutes walk away from the tourist area Thamel. This is more like business center with many banks. Right across the street, there is super market and 100 yen store like Diaso in Japan. Unlike Thamel, the road were paved and there are name brand shops and western fast food stores such as KFC. I didn’t know that there was an area like thin in Kathmandu.

ショッピングモール。Shopping mall.



Today, I visited Pashupatinath. It is the biggest Hindu temple in Nepal and a world heritage. Also known as crematorium.

I took a local bus for the first time in Nepal. There is no specific bust stop sign board nor the destination on the bus but you can guess by many people and buses are stopping. To every bus, I would shout and ask “Pashupatinath?”. I was lucky that 3rd bus was going to Pashupatinath.

今回はバンタイプのバスに乗ります。Van type bus.
車内の様子。支える手の置き場もないくらい。Inside the bus. No space to place your hand to support your body.


You feel it’s 150% full. Once you got on the bus, you wouldn’t be able to move. I knew it can be like this according to my preliminary research so I locked my backpack, and prepare small cash for bus fare in my pocket where I can access easily when payment.

バスを降りて、携帯の地図アプリで確認しながら歩きます。Got off the bus. Walk with a map app.
門前町っぽくなってきた。もうこの辺りにあるはず。Looks like a temple town. The temple should be nearby.
サルさんとは目が合わない様に進みます。笑。 I try not to eye contact with a monkey.


Should be nearby according to a map but I still can’t find. I just keep asking people. Probably this right here…?

ここ入口?何も言われなかったので中に入りました。Is this it? Nobody stopped me so I just walked in.

所々で火があがっています。側には川が流れています。I see burning spots. A river is just under.




I kept walking wondering maybe is this it?  I glanced at where the smoke was coming out. Wait.. Have I just seen…? What?

I felt my mind and body froze. I slowly moved my head and glanced again at the same spot. Just as I thought, it was human’s feet. Burnt.

I’m sorry… I said in my head. I felt I saw something I should had never seen, at the same time I felt it would have been rude to feel sorry because it is just a human body in a sacred ceremony. I was somewhat confused.


She is not in the picture above but I saw a woman sobbing out loud on the ground. Right by her side, there were men who were silently proceeding the work of the ceremony sometimes confirming the process with each other. It seemed like they’re doing in a businesslike manner in a way.

金色に光る建物が寺院です。寺院内はヒンズー教徒しか入れません。The golden building on the back is the pashupatinath temple. Only Hindu is allowed to go inside.



As I walked up the stairs across the cremation site, I saw people who seemd have having fun laughing. They said that you walk with your hands toward the the hole on the wall, with your eyes closed. If your hands meet the hole, your wish will come true.

There are dead bodies just down the stairs and on the other hand, there are young people who are making their wishes. Made me feel a life and a death exist at the same place. I was no longer scared of the dead body I saw earlier.


When I was back at the hostel, I met a Japanese guy who had just checked in. Kazue, the hostel owner’s wife too us to the small pub in the neighbor.

左は相席のおじさん。The on the left kindly shared the table with us.
飲むのはもちろんネパールビールのトゥンバ。Tongba (Nepali beer).
おつまみは、バッファロー肉。Buffalo meat.
そしてネパール名物のモモという蒸し餃子。Momo (Steamed dumplimg).


The man we shared the table was very friendly. We had a great time together. As he was leaving, he said he was going to eat his wife’s dinner when he gets home even though he had some food at the pub.